Horse The Big Pet

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Behavior problems will arise in horses for several reasons and under a variety of circumstances. While most horses behave well, some develop neurotic tendencies, vices and bad habits due to improper handling and treatment, previous experiences or rushed training. Some, however, simply inherit psychological frailty genetically. Luckily, there are several strategies that can be employed to either prevent, manage, or cure poor behavior traits and habits exhibited by some horses. When correcting behavior or punishing, make sure the punishment “fits the crime,” so to speak.

1. Find a way to understand the basic needs behind your horses behavior. To adjust to domestication, some inherent habits that horses have must be altered. Modify the habits in a way that encourages other natural behaviors in order to reduce the stress related to the modifications.
2. Manage your own emotions while in the presence of your horse. According to Today’s Horse, your horse can pick up on your attitude, which means that being angry can send negative messages to your horse that can effect their own attitudes and emotions.
3. Make corrections to modify your horse’s behavior using both positive and negative reinforcement. Always use an appropriate correction based on the behavior or action of your horse. Sometimes this may call for severe use of the popper or rein and other times can simply be adding more leg pressure.
4. Make use of positive reinforcement whenever possible and offer rewards for good behavior. Avoid pestering your horse when a correction is not resulting in the type of behavior modification you want. Know when to release pressure and consider other ways of addressing your horse’s poor behavior or action.

Jockey Club rules prevent naming new foals after Triple Crown winners. The Jockey Club requires that all Thoroughbred horses foaled in the United States must be registered in the club’s “The American Stud Book” by their breeders and/or owners, prior to racing or breeding them. The Club genetically types all foals, verifies parentage, registers the individualized number tattooed on the upper lip, and approves the racing name within the first year of the horse’s life. Over 450,000 names are currently unavailable because they are being used or have historical significance in the horse racing industry. The Jockey Club approves approximately 75 per of the first-choice names submitted with proper paperwork and fees.

1. Combine the names of the sire (the father) and the dam (the mother) into a name suggestive of both. For example, in a National Public Radio interview, Jockey Club registrar Rick Bailey tells how the name of the foal Sticky G.I. came from the sire Lost Soldier and the dam Super Glue.
2. List three to four names in order of preference and submit them to the Jockey Club on a Name Claiming form, a registration application or through interactive registration (see Resources).
3. Ensure the names are no longer than 18 letters, do not consist entirely of initials or numbers, and have no clearly commercial significance according to Jockey Club rules.
4. Name your foal by February 1 of its 2-year-old year to prevent paying a naming fee and reserve the name for future use.
5. Use the name racing your horse within one year from the day it was reserved to avoid the name being claimed for another horse.

Things You’ll Need:
The Jockey Club Name Claiming form or registration application

That great big ole horse needs you to be as gentle with his hair, as you are with yours. Treat him with love and kindness and he will gladly return the favor.

1. Brushes. Have supplies at your disposal, in this case the comb or brush of preference. Perhaps both, depending on severity of snarls. Retrieve the horse to be groomed, place a halter and lead on him to help hold him in place while you commence with the task of untangling the hair.
2. Start by introducing the comb to the horse. Run the comb over his head and back, down his neck, and legs. Be gentle as the body hair is very thin and close to his hide. Some horses are more sensitive than others.
3 . Next, bring the comb to his forehead, this hair is the forelock. Place one hand on the top of his head, while sliding the comb thru the hair with the other. If resistance occurs, snarls are present. Stop. Go to the bottom of the lock, work up until the tangle is freed. Continue with this process until all tangles have been removed.
4. Now you may move onto the mane. Placing your hand on the highest portion of the neck, slip the comb in the mane. If you meet with resistance, repeat the entire process until the hair combs smooth. Once you have completed this process, you are ready to move on to the tail section.
5. Holding the entire tail in one hand, gently comb from the top until you meet with a snag, this will signal the need to hold the tail in a lower position. While holding near the end of the tail, start the comb at the ends of the hair. Continue moving upward, where you will eventually meet with the first combed out section. Happy tails!

Things You’ll Need:
Horse (any type)
Mane & tail comb/brush
Patients
Kindness
Gentle hands

Saddling your horse takes just a few minutes but is a very important part of the pre-ride preparation.

1. Groom your horse in preparation for your ride.
2. Always saddle from the near (left) side of the horse.
3. Place your saddle pad so the front of the pad is just in front of the horse’s withers (front shoulders).
4. Place the saddle on top of the pad so the front of the saddle is just in front of the withers. Make sure the saddle is centered.
5. Hold the saddle underneath the horn (only on a western saddle) and gently lift up while you lift up the pad so it doesn’t rub on the horse’s withers.
6. Buckle the cinch or girth so it is snug around the horse’s belly, just behind the front legs. Make sure the cinch or girth doesn’t rub or cut into the horse’s front legs.
7. Tighten the cinch so you can just slip a finger between the cinch or girth and the horse’s belly.
8. Buckle the back cinch if your western saddle has one.
9. Make sure stirrups are adjusted properly. When you stand in the stirrups you should have two finger widths between you and the saddle.
10. Attach breast collar to each side of the saddle skirt if you are using one.

Things You’ll Need:
Saddle pads
Equestrian equipment
Saddles

Attaching straps to cowboy spurs is a simple process. Most straps and spurs come with attachment points that are easy to find and attach. The hardest part about attaching the straps is ensuring the straps are the correct size and that they are facing in the correct direction. After attaching the straps to the spurs, the straps will not come off unless they break.

1. Purchase the correct size of spur strap. For men and women who have a shoe size of seven and above, an adult size strap will work best. For individuals and children with shoe sizes under a ladies seven, the youth size strap will work best. For children with very small feet that are age 7 or younger, a child size strap is required.

2. Locate the attachment place on the spur. Usually this is a clamp, button, buckle or studs.

3. Fit the spur strap over the top of the shoes that you will wear while riding the horse. Usually people wear cowboy boots with their spurs. Slide the spur around your heel. If the spur is the correct size, the spur should stay in place on your heel without the strap. The strap is there to keep it in place when walking, riding and using the spurs.

4. Look at where the spur meets the straps. Check the placement of the attachment location. If the straps are the correct size, then the sides of the spur should match with the holes in the strap for a snug fit. If the straps are too small, there will be a large gap between the spur and the strap. If the straps are too large, the strap will hang far over the appropriate attachment point.

5. Use a hammer and nail to create a new attachment hole on straps that are too big. Lay the strap on a piece of scrap wood. Punch a hole in the strap for the buckle or stud of the spur to fit through by hammering the nail through the strap and into the scrap wood. Remove the nail from the wood.

6. Slide the buckle, stud, button or clamp through the hole in the strap. Make sure the strap is facing the correct side up, with the buckle on the outside of the shoe. Close the buckle or clasp to attach the two pieces. If the attachment is a stud or other metal piece, hammer the stud in place with a rubber mallet. This will prevent the strap from detaching from the spur.

Things You’ll Need:

1. Spurs
2. Spur straps
3. Cowboy boots
4. Hammer
5. Nail
6. Scrap wood
7. Rubber mallet

1. Locate the metal ring on either side of the horses bridle. The rings are located on either end of the bit and rest against the side of the horse’s mouth.
2. Slip one of the slobber straps into one of the rings on the bridle. Pull half of the straps through the ring and fold it in half so the ends meet.
3. Put the second strap through the other bridle ring and fold it in half like you did with the first. Both straps should be pointing down to the ground.
4. Push the smaller end of the reign through the left slobber strap from the upper side. The reign should pass through the slit in each half of the strap.
5. Pull the reign all the way through the strap leaving eight inches of strap hanging out the top of the strap. Pass the remaining eight inches around the strap and tie a knot to secure the reign to the strap.
6. Pass the loose end of the reign through the underside of the right strap. Pull eight inches of the reign through the right strap.
7. Loop the eight inches of reign on the right strap around the strap to knot the reign in place.

If you want to ride horses, you should invest in the appropriate riding gear, such as tack for your horse and the right clothing for you. Here’s how to buy horse riding gear that keeps you and your horse safe and comfortable.

1. Determine what kind of gear you want or need. English and Western style riding each require different types of clothing for the rider and tack for the horse. Equipment can vary greatly with each discipline and will not be compatible with each other.
2. Choose a saddle, bridle and other tack for your horse by comparing price and safety. Expensive doesn’t always mean better quality or practicality. Choose tack that fits your horse correctly. Loose or tight fitting tack can cause discomfort or accidents when riding.
3. Buy riding apparel suited for your discipline. Ride in clothing that is safe and not bulky. English riding consists of riding pants, lace-up or slip on boots with heels, a slim fitting shirt and a helmet. Find these at a tack store or online. Western riding is more relaxed unless at a show. Jeans, a t-shirt or button shirt and boots with a heel are needed to ride.
4. Pick boots that have small soles and at least an inch of heel. Large, chunky soled shoes can get caught in the stirrups if an accident occurs. The heel of the boot is necessary to keep your foot from sliding through the stirrup and trapping your leg.
5. Purchase a helmet that is new and up to date on safety codes. English riding requires a helmet, but Western riding does not. Many riders of each discipline choose to wear a helmet for safety purposes.

Never ride in tennis shoes. Tennis shoes can easily slide through stirrups or get caught, resulting in an accident.

Draw reins can be a good tool for teaching a horse to engage his hindquarters and move out in a smooth and fluid fashion. When properly used, draw reins can increase the impulsion of the horse’s gait, get the horse to round its back and help to smooth out the gaits. However, draw reins should only be used by an experienced rider, since using them improperly can cause resistance and confusion on the part of the horse.

1. Make sure the horse has the basic gaits down reasonably well before starting training with draw reins. The horse should walk, trot and canter on a loose rein, stop squarely and back readily before you start any advanced training using draw reins or any other tool.
2. Place the bridle on the horse. Make sure the bit you use is a plain ring snaffle. Never use draw reins with any shanked bit. Remove the regular reins from the bridle.
3. Attach the left hand draw rein to the left side buckle on the girth. Run the rein past the horse’s leg and through the ring on the snaffle bit, then flip the rein up over the horse’s neck. Be sure that the rein is loose and not pulling on the horse’s mouth.
4. Connect the right hand draw rein to the right side buckle on the girth. Bring the rein up past the horse’s leg and through the ring on the snaffle. Flip the rein up over the horse’s neck so that the reins are crossed. Be sure the reins are not tight.
5. Mount your horse as you normally would. When working with draw reins it is always a good idea to have a trainer or instructor with you. This provides an extra level of safety in case the horse panics or stumbles, and it helps you determine when to relieve the pressure on the reins.
6. Ride with the reins loose, keeping one rein in each hand. Apply light pressure to one rein at a time, and release that pressure as soon as you feel your horse respond. The horse should drop its head, and you should feel the back end begin to engage. Release the pressure as soon as the horse responds, then repeat the process on the other side.
7. Move your horse in a circle and tighten up slightly on the inside rein as you move. Release the pressure as soon as the horse drops its head and tilts its nose in the direction of travel. It is helpful to have your instructor watch you and tell you when to release the pressure, since it can be difficult at the beginning to feel the proper movements.
8. Limit your use of the draw reins to short sessions, and reduce their use as your horse begins to respond with normal reins. Draw reins are a good tool, but they should be used sparingly, and only by a rider with soft hands and a good feel for the horse’s movements.

1. Trail riding is so much fun but for safety reasons we just can’t go out there on any old horse. It could be an awful experience, a day ruined by choosing the wrong breed for your days excursion and also dangerous. Instead choose a horse that has the qualifications for adapting to trail riding and has all the necessary traits for being a good choice. The key thing to know is that any breed can be trained for riding trails; but some horses wouldn’t be appropriate for the experience like ponies or large muscular horses.

Best choice would be A.) A horse that you are comfortable with. B.)Known for being a good trail riding horse. C.) Traits to look for: High endurance, calm disposition, stamina for the rugged country trails and a horse that you feel comfortable with. Caution: You wouldn’t want to take a horse that spooks easily or one that is difficult to handle on trails. Safety Precautions are necessary. * Choose a trusted horse, that is in good shape for trail riding.

2. Arabian. The breed originated on the Arabian peninsula in 5000 B.C. And is the oldest bred of horse. Their stamina, speed, spirit and beauty makes this breed a number 1 choice. Their intelligence and strength alone stands out and makes them a fine choice for trail riding. The Middle Eastern people (Islamics) were impressed with this breed and cherished their Arabian Horses for being the chosen horse for running races out in the hot heat of the desert and just as a fine horse because of their so many wonderful traits.
The Arabian’s endurance, speed, beauty and intelligence have captivated people for centuries. From Alexander the Greats love for the breed; to cave paintings of the Arabian horses discovered by Archaeologists.

Clearly this breed has impressed people all along. Even in movies and books we see this incredible animal as the main character. They triumph at most endurance events and their anatomy is different than other horses. 1 less rib and 2 less vertebra’s. Which produce a smoother ride and they are more sure footed, nice gait and overall incredible potential. This is a perfect horse for trail riding or any other adventure you might think to participate in. With the right training this horse can do anything and come out a winner! You can’t go wrong with the Arabian beauty on the trails.
3. KENTUCKY NATURAL GAITED HORSE
In the 1800′s in Kentucky a horse was bred for conveyance to help with work on the ranch and other traits wanted in a horse. They produced The Kentucky National Gaited Horse. Back in those days were rough times and very hard labor. Living on farms they needed a horse that had all the good qualities that were in demand for those times. From the farm work to transportation and for family fun rides on the horse. Bred for: Endurance, strength, tempered, loyalty, intelligence and for being sure footed. Whatever was needed done or to have help with they relied on their Kentucky Horse which became their perfect breed of choice.

They are known for being smooth and balanced with a beautiful gait. The rhythmic of it is outstanding in dispositional traits. Perfect for trail riding because of the calm, good natured behavior and keeping a gait for many miles. This bred is a popular trail horse and has a reputation for being loyal and good on different terrain.

4. MISSOURI FOX TROTTER. The 1900′s brought about many uses for this bred. From farm labor, to pulling the family buggy, or riding on. The horse was used for everything including for fun on trails and rough terrain. The ancestor heritage is from the: Arabian, Morgan and Tennessee Walker’s. The Missouri Fox Trotter is genetically inclined to an easy gait and a good disposition. Their fox trait makes them an excellent trail horse. Their gait makes the trail riding smooth, balanced and a comfortable ride for long periods of time atop the animal. They can endure long distances, brisk speed without getting tired; this makes them an excellent choice for trail riding.

Park Rangers use this bred in the wilderness because of their incredible endurance and they are amazing with managing rough, rocky terrain. 90% of them are registered Missouri Fox Trotters and owned by trail riders for that purpose. They are a perfect choice when it comes to safety as well. They are often called the common man’s pleasure horse because they are a good horse with excellent qualities. Furthermore, Mountaineers love this breed and anyone else that enjoys spending time riding on trails.

5. MORGAN. In the 1700′s this horse was one of the first horses bred in the United States. Later the breed would be referred to as the Morgan Horse from the earliest ownership of the breed owned by a man named Justin Morgan. The only breed that can trace its heritage to one breed. There is even a museum about the history of the Morgan horse. This breed is a lovely horse with expressive eyes, intelligence, good natured, graceful with an upright neck, compact body and strong muscles. Their stamina and athletic nature make them an excellent choice for trail riding.

They have been used for everything from ranch work, endurance riding, show rings, and back country riding. A very adaptable loving creature. Their trot makes it a smooth ride and they are very quick to learn. There were a favored breed that were used in the Civil War for their traits and disposition. Which says it all of how they were so relied on and being such a wonderful choice for even fighting in wars. They were dependable, loyal, had sense in firing ranges, adaptable to their surroundings and conditions. This would truly be a fine horse for trail riding. Check out the visual tour of the National Museum of the Morgan Horse:

“Morgan Museum Tour

6. TENNESSEE WALKER. Their inherited traits are of a fusion from six breeds for calmness, speed and form. The bred originally used in the Southern parts of the United States for carrying plantation owners around on their land. Their popularity through the years has put them on the forefront from everything from: TV shows, to riding on them in parades, show horses for rings and such. Used for their calm disposition. They are an excellent breed known for being very good trail horses. People love them for their intelligence, disposition, reliability, gait and good stamina.

Riding a Tennessee Walker gives you a feeling of riding in luxury because you don’t experience being bounced around like you might with some of the other breeds, that happen to trot along. Instead you experience a smooth gliding and graceful ride. A fun horse for trail riding.